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Saturday, January 1, 2022

Retinoid

Retinoid is a collective or umbrella term for all types of vitamin A products. The different types of retinoid vary in strength and potential irritation (because of the number of steps of their conversion to the strongest type. All retinoids must end up as retinoic acid. The more degrees away from that highest strength version therefore weakens a retinoid).

  1. retinol ester - weakest (suitable for sensitive skin and beginners)
  2. retinol 
  3. retinaldehyde aka retinal
  4. retinoic acid aka tretinoin - strongest (prescription strength)


Common Uses & Benefits

  • Anti-aging
  • Anti-acne
  • Improves hyperpigmentation
  • Minimizes size of pores
  • Improves texture of the skin


TIPS FOR USE

  1. Select a suitable retinoid. Retinoid promotes skin turnover and can therefore cause retinoid dermatitis and flaking, especially among first time users. Consequently, beginners will likely find retinol least irritating. However, in some cases, a formulation's vehicle (like those that are highly mositurizing) may counteract the potential irritation to a significant extent. If you have dry skin, you are more likely to prefer formulations that are thicker with oats while, for oily skin , you are likely to prefer the gel-based vehicles.  If your skin is sensitive, use frangrance-free formulations to minimize the likelihood of irritation. Conditions under which to avoid retinoid include the following. 
    1. while attempting to get pregnant
    2. pregnancy
    3. breast feeding
    4. active rosacea, eczema or other inflamatory skin conditions.
  2. Application. Be consistent. It is common to leave retinoid cream overnight.
    1. Apply at night, if not specifically directed by a brand. Retinoid breaks down in sunlight and would therefore be wasted if used in the day.
    2. Apply a pea-sized amount from a finger tip on the entire face after cleansing. BEWARE, if you have sensitive skin, avoid exfoliating in your cleansing routine and apply on dry skin. The deterrent in wet skin is that wet skin absorbs more product more quickly, which can increase the chance of irritation. 
    3. Follow with moisturizer and other skin care products (like sunscreen). In other words, consider retinoid a type of 'foundation'. 
    4. If you are particularly concerned with senstivity, apply moisturizer before AND after retinoid.
    5. Use sunscreen during the day.
  3. Adjust your usage frequency based on your skin's level of adaptation. 
    1. Beginners usually benefit from using retinoid once every other day ... and NOT daily. The skin usually becomes used to retinoid after 3 weeks. After your skin has become better adjusted, intuitively increase the frequency. A common usage rate at this point is once daily.
    2. Beginners with sensitive skin may start using retinoid once every 3 days before slowly increasing frequency.
    3. If you wish to be extra cautious as a first time user, use the product once and wait for several days to observe the effect before a second application. 
  4. Protect the more sensitive parts of the face. Eye lid skin is the most sensitive skin on the body. Other sensitive areas include around the mouth, the neck and chest. When applying to such areas, use weaker types of retinoid and or apply a moisturizer or occlusive BEFORE the retinoid on dry skin. Having said this however, since some sensitive areas might benefit from retinoid because retinoid can thicken the skin, cautiously experiment with your level of tolerance. BEWARE. Do NOT apply a retinoid  at the same time as products that have potentially irritating ingredients like vitamin C, acids.  (Such other irritating ingredients may be applied in the day if retinoid is applied at night). Examples include the following.
    1. moisturizer, healing ointment, vasceline
  5. Be patient. Retinoid can be transformative. However, it takes time. The rule of thumb time period before you might see results is as follows.
    1. anti-aging: after 3-6 months
    2. hyperpigmentation: after 3-6 months
    3. acne: 2 months


CONTENT RELATED TO RETINOIDS


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